The transplanting of the robust LS1 GEN III Shortblock is something that has happened for nearly a decade, but has recently ramped up in popularity as many enthusiasts are discovering that installing or swapping a LS1 into your 240sx is a lot easier and cheaper than most initially think.
Daunting as it may seem at first, there really isn’t much to the process of How to Wire a LS1 engine into your chassis.
The reasons are many but with the many different GEN III blocks available from many different levels of power and cost, to the many wiring services from Painless Wiring and ChaseBays, things are getting cheaper and better for LS1 fans everywhere.
- How to Swap your LS1
- LS1 Motors
- LS1 Sensor Checklist
- How to Wire your LS1
Before you begin, you must determine what PCM you will be using and what pinouts you will be teeing into the F4 body plug on your 240sx. To find this information out, look on your ECU for the service numbers that are printed on a small sticker that says PCM with SERVICE NO. ########.
These wiring pinouts are from a 98 LS1 with a service number of 16238212, if yours varies for whatever reason give us a ring for the correct pinout or conversely you can have your PCM flashed for the correct motor and transmission setup you are utilizing. Our How to Wire a LS1 in a S14 240SX guide will give you a snapshot of what wires you need for your LS1 to run.
We will not be reviewing a few subharnesses from our LS1 harness for install, namely the secondary 02 sensors and the subharnesses 60506 – Fuel Injection Harness 60318 – Evap Emissions Harness. Because this vehicle is not meant for use on public highways or streets, we will not be retaining usage of the secondary 02 sensors or the smog equipment on our motor.
Take some time to review the pinouts below before we get started, first the 2 ECU plugs located on your LS1 PCM.
LS1 ECU / PCM Pinouts of How to Wire a LS1
1997-98,LS1 PCM Connector C1 – RED
Pin | Wire Color | Circuit No. | Function |
1 | — | — | Not Used |
2 | — | — | Not Used |
3 | WHT | 1310 | EVAP Canister Vent Sol Valve |
4 | BRN/WHT | 633 | Camshaft Position Sensor Signal |
5 | — | — | Not Used |
6 | — | — | Not Used |
7 | YEL | 400 | VSS High Signal |
8 | — | — | Not Used |
9 | PNK/BLK | 1746 | Inj #3 Control |
10 | — | — | Not Used |
11 | DK BLU | 229 | VTD Fuel Enable |
12 | LT BLU/BLK | 844 | Inj #4 Control |
13 | RED/WHT | 2122 | Coil #2 Control |
14 | DK GRN | 59 | A/C Status |
15 | BLK/WHT | 845 | Inj #5 Control |
16 | — | ||
17 | — | ||
18 | YEL/BLK | 846 | Inj #6 Control |
19 | — | ||
20 | — | ||
21 | PPL | 719 | IAT Sensor Ground |
22 | DK BLU | 1225 | Trans Range Signal B |
23 | LT GRN/BLK | 1745 | Inj #2 Control |
24 | BLK/WHT | 1704 | Sensor Ground Jumper |
25 | PNK | 1224 | Trans Range Signal A |
26 | — | ||
27 | RED/BLK | 877 | Inj #7 Control |
28 | — | ||
29 | — | ||
30 | GRY/BLK | 1687 | Spark Retard Signal |
31 | DK BLU/WHT | 878 | Inj #8 Control |
32 | ORN/BLK | 434 | PNP Switch Signal |
33 | BLK | 1744 | Inj #1 Control |
34 | GRY or WHT | 587 or 687 | Skip Shift Sol (M/T) or 3-2 Shift Sol (AT) |
35 | LT GRN | 1222 | 1-2 Shift Sol |
36 | DK/BLU | 1936 | Fuel Gauge Output Control |
37 | BRN/WHT | 419 | MIL Control |
38 | — | — | Not Used |
39 | DK GRN/WHT | 459 | A/C Clutch Relay Control |
40 | WHT or YEL/BLK | 375 or 1223 | Skip Shift Lamp Control (M/T) or 2-3 Shift Sol |
41 | BRN/WHT | 1173 | Low Oil Lamp Control |
42 | LT GRN | 1652 | Reverse Inhibit Sol Control |
43 | DK/GRN | 335 | Cooling Fan 1 Relay |
44 | YEL | 573 | Crank Position Sensor Signal |
45 | DK GRN/WHT | 428 | EVAP Canister Purge Valve Control |
46 | — | — | Not Used |
47 | DK GRN/WHT | 762 | A/C Request Signal |
48 | YEL | 492 | MAF Signal |
49 | PPL | 2121 | Coil #1 Control |
50 | — | — | Not Used |
51 | — | — | Not Used |
52 | PPL/WHT | 2128 | Coil #8 Control |
53 | RED | 2127 | Coil #7 Control |
54 | LT BLU/WHT | 2126 | Coil #6 Control |
55 | DK GRN/WHT | 817 | VSS Output Signal |
56 | DK GRN | 2125 | Coil #5 Control |
57 | DK GRN/WHT | 2124 | Coil #4 Control |
58 | LT BLU | 2123 | Coil #3 Control |
59 | BRN/WHT | 2130 | Coil Control Low Ref Bank 2 |
60 | BRN | 2129 | Coil Control Low Ref Bank 1 |
61 | RED | 1226 | Trans Range Signal C |
62 | BLK | 552 | EGR Pintle Position Ground Ref |
63 | BLK | 407 | A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Ground |
64 | — | — | Not Used |
65 | — | — | Not Used |
66 | — | — | Not Used |
67 | — | — | Not Used |
68 | — | — | Not Used |
69 | — | — | Not Used |
70 | — | — | Not Used |
71 | PPL | 401 | VSS Signal Low |
72 | BLK | 451 | PCM Ground |
73 | — | — | Not Used |
74 | — | — | Not Used |
75 | GRY | 720 | Left & Right Fuel Level Sensor Ground |
76 | BLK | 451 | PCM Ground |
77 | PPL | 420 | TCC/Brake Switch Signal |
78 | — | — | Not Used |
79 | — | — | Not Used |
80 | — | — | Not Used |
1997-98,LS1 PCM Connector C2 – BLUE
Pin | Wire Color | Circuit No. | Function |
1 | TAN | 1671 | HO2S Signal Low B2S2 |
2 | TAN/WHT | 1669 | HO2S Signal Low B1S2 |
3 | TAN | 800 | Serial Data (Uart) (not f-body???) |
4 | RED | 631 | Camshaft Position Sensor B+ Supply |
5 | TAN | 1667 | HO2S Signal Low B2S1 |
6 | TAN/WHT | 1653 | HO2S Signal Low B1S1 |
7 | RED/BLK | 380 | A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Signal |
8 | TAN | 472 | IAT Sensor Signal |
9 | BRN | 1456 | EGR Pintle Position Sensor Signal |
10 | PPL | 30 | Fuel Level Sensor Signal |
11 | — | — | Not Used |
12 | DK BLU | 417 | TP Sensor Signal |
13 | YEL/BLK | 1227 | Trans Fluid Temp Sensor Signal |
14 | ORN/BLK | 1057 | Trans Fluid Temp Sensor Ground |
15 | — | — | Not Used |
16 | — | — | Not Used |
17 | — | — | Not Used |
18 | — | — | Not Used |
19 | PNK | 439 | PCM Ignition 1 Feed |
20 | ORN | 340 | PCM Battery Feed |
21 | BLK | 451 | PCM Ground |
22 | YEL/BLK | 1868 | Crank Position Sensor Ground |
23 | BLK | 452 | TP Sensor Ground |
24 | BLK/WHT | 1704 | Sensor Ground Jumper |
25 | BRN | 718 | ECT Sensor Ground |
26 | ORN/BLK | 469 | MAP Sensor Ground |
27 | — | — | Not Used |
28 | DK BLU | 473 | Cooling Fan 2 Relay Control |
29 | — | — | Not Used |
30 | BRN | 436 | AIR Pump Relay Control |
31 | PPL | 421 | AIR Solenoid Relay Control |
32 | TAN/BLK | 422 | TCC Enable Solenoid |
33 | BRN | 418 | TCC (PWM) Solenoid |
34 | GRY | 435 | EGR Valve Ground |
35 | WHT | 121 | Engine Speed Signal (TACH) |
36 | LT BLU/WHT | 1229 | Trans Fluid Pressure Control Sol Low |
37 | DK GRN/WHT | 465 | Fuel Pump Relay Control |
38 | LT BLU | 697 | EGR Valve Control Circuit |
39 | RED/BLK | 1228 | Trans Fluid Pressure Control Sol High |
40 | — | — | Not Used |
41 | PPL | 1670 | HO2S Signal High B2S2 |
42 | PPL/WHT | 1668 | HO2S Signal High B1S2 |
43 | GRY | 596 | TP Sensor 5V Reference |
44 | — | — | Not Used |
45 | — | — | Not Used |
46 | PPL | 1666 | HO2S Signal High B2S1 |
47 | PPL/WHT | 1665 | HO2S Signal High B1S1 |
48 | LT GRN | 432 | MAP Sensor Signal |
49 | YEL | 410 | ECT Sensor Signal |
50 | — | — | Not Used |
51 | — | — | Not Used |
52 | DK GRN | 890 | Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Signal |
53 | — | — | Not Used |
54 | LT GRN/BLK | 444 | IAC Coil B Low |
55 | LT BLU/BLK | 1748 | IAC Coil A Low |
56 | LT BLU/WHT | 1747 | IAC Coil A High |
57 | LT GRN/WHT | 1749 | IAC Coil B High |
58 | PPL | 1807 | Serial Data (Class 2) |
59 | — | — | Not Used |
60 | BLK | 451 | PCM Ground |
61 | ORN | 340 | PCM Battery Feed |
62 | LT GRN | 1867 | Crank Position Sensor B+ Supply |
63 | — | — | Not Used |
64 | GRY | 416 | MAP Sensor 5V Reference |
65 | GRY | 705 | EGR Valve 5V Reference |
66 | GRY | 474 | A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor 5V Reference |
67 | GRY | 598 | 5V Reference |
68 | LT BLU | 1876 | Knock Sensor Rear |
69 | DK BLU | 496 | Knock Sensor Front |
70 | PNK/BLK | 632 | Camshaft Position Sensor Ground |
71 | — | — | Not Used |
72 | — | — | Not Used |
73 | — | — | Not Used |
74 | — | — | Not Used |
75 | — | — | Not Used |
76 | BRN | 1174 | Oil Level Sensor Signal |
77 | — | — | Not Used |
78 | — | — | Not Used |
79 | — | — | Not Used |
80 | — | — | Not Use |
240SX Wiring Diagram ( ZENKI – Automatic – F4 Plug )
Let’s take a look at the F4 body plug found on your 1995-1997 S14 Nissan 240SX, and there are 3 sections to this body harness, which will will review.
You will see the 2 ground wires to the left on this diagram for the ground wires leading to your LS1 sensors. The next wire is the green and orange neutral position switch, depending on what transmission you are swapping into your S14.
After those 2 wires, there are just 3 wires that remain for wiring to the LS1 RED PCM harness. Once of which is of course the red solid power wire found on the middle section of the F4 plug. And the Red Ignition Switch found at the very end of this F4 plug, as our F4 came out of an automatic this wire is missing as per the picture.
And of course lastly the Sensor power wire which is the brown wire found next to the MIL (Check Engine Light – CEL) wire that is orange with a silver stripe.
Next we flip the F4 harness over to find the top of the F4 plug, which we will need just a few wires to tap from.
The first wire we’ll be tapping into the is the larger gauge black wire with a red stripe, this wire powers the injectors and must be teed into your blue LS1 PCM harness. From there the other wires in question must be tapped into some sort of digital translator ( Dakota Digital or something similar ) for the tachometer and vehicle speed sensor wires that must lead to the dash.
Have any questions about our How to Wire a LS1 into a 240sx article? Leave us a comment and let us know.
- How to Swap a LS1
- How to Test your LS1 MAP sensor
- How to Install LS1 Fuel Rails
- How to Test LS1 MAF Sensor
- How to Service LS1 TPS
- Pro Street Staff
- www.prostreetonline.com
- 1-888-776-7022
[…] Wiring a LS1 into a Nissan S14 240sx […]
[…] How to Wire your LS1 […]
[…] A : Using a Dakota Digital unit you can convert the signal by intercepting the vehicle speed sensor wire from the LS1 and sending the output to your cluster. Make sure to check which LS ecu you have before splicing into any wires, click here for our wiring diagram. […]
[…] How to Wire a LS1 […]
Hello, I am swapping an ls2 with DBW into an s13 240sx. I already have the engine harness converted to a stand alone harness and ecu is flashed to work with it. Since the harness is already converted, do I still need to wire into the body harness? If so, why?
Thank you
Hey Travis, thanks for reading.
If you have a standalone harness for your pedal assembly then no you dont “need” to wire it into your body harness if you don’t care about things like brake lights or reverse lights.
Other than that sounds like an awesome project! Let us know how it turns out! Thanks for commenting.
Ok thanks, I appreciate it. Reverse lights will probably be easy to retrofit. But the brake lights will have to be rewired?
What are you using as a pedal assembly? or have you converted to cable?
DBW, the factory ls2 harness was converted to stand alone.
It shouldn’t be too bad to wire that into your chassis. if your standalone is driving custom gauges that’s even better.
Ultimately it would just be one trigger wire for the brake lights, which is a big safety step so we would recommend you wire that in.
It sounds like a great build! best of luck and let us know how it turns out!
I could be completely wrong but this article is not a complete DIY to wiring up the ls1 harness the the 240sx, right? The reason why I ask is the big black and red wire you advised has to be teed into the the blue pcm. Where?
Hi Andre, thanks for reading
It depends on how you want to wire your LS1 swap. Want to start it directly with no regard to relays or any nonsense? Then yes this is a complete guide to wiring your LS1. If you are wiring over a complete LS1 harness and ECU into your 240, it’s no different you will be wiring the black/red power wire into your relays. That’s the only difference really.
By blue PCM you mean the blue plug on the GM ECU correct? Try our pinout here :
http://my.prostreetonline.com/2014/09/15/ls1-ecu-pinout/
Thanks for commenting and let us know how your swap turns out!
Do you have a wiring question? We’d be glad to help. Thanks for commenting!
hey i was doing a L98 conversion to my s14 adm that has abs and i want everything from chassis to work, would u happend to know the pinout for this? i have a 1996 abs model and the full wiring ecu from a 2008 VE ss commodore. (l98).
Hi Matthew, okay trying to understand the question.
you are installing a L98 and using a 2008 Holden harness – gotcha
you want all the chassis stuff to work properly? not sure what you mean here but using the dash harness here should take care of most of it. Outside of the dual speed nature of the Holden or L98 fans, there’s nothing that would prevent your engine or chassis matching together.
Maybe I am not understanding the question as posed? Please let me know if I’ve missed the mark at all. Thanks for commenting
Hi I dot replay understand the procedure here I’m gonna be running an lm7 into my s13 chassis what wires do I need to tap into unordered for everything to work?
Hi AJ, if you want to wire your GEN III LS1 based engine into a S13, use both of these pages to get the job done.
http://my.prostreetonline.com/2013/08/13/how-to-swap-a-ls1-into-a-240sx/
for LS1 wiring inputs and ECU pinouts
and
http://my.prostreetonline.com/2014/08/13/how-to-wire-a-s13-2jz-swap/
for what wires you need to connect in your S13 240SX.
Sounds like a great project! Let us know how it turns out!
Prostreetonline
I see your San Jose SHARKS hockey picture, are you in the Bay area.
Hi, yes we are! Thanks for reading and GO SHARKS!