How To Bleed an SRT-4 Clutch

The Dodge Neon SRT-4 is one of our favorite force fed four cylinder applications, with loads of torque available stock and 400+ horsepower just a few tweaks away. Manufactured from 2003 to 2005 and developed by the PVO (Performance Vehicle Operations), Chrysler’s in house tuner division the SRT-4 burst on the scene as a powerful alternative to the AWD equipped Subarus and Mitsubishi sedans available at the time.

Learning how to bleed an SRT-4 clutch can have a bunch of misinformation on it roaming around the Internet. Contrary to popular belief you do not need a complete replacement line as Dodge would have you believe if you have hydraulic issues. This is where learning How To Bleed an SRT-4 Clutch can be crucial.

Our own Project SRT-4 has had it’s fair share of ups and downs, but with a new Cometic headgasket and ARP head studs installed, we’ve belted out 389 @16psi on our own 448x Dynojet.

We’ve also freshly installed a ACT Xtreme Duty Clutch with a 6 puck unsprung disc, and our clutch master cylinder must be serviced. Today we’ll show you how to bleed an SRT-4 clutch by way of the slave cylinder, and either replace / adjust the master cylinder without the many problems that may plague you during this job.

This vehicle’s clutch hydraulic system is one we field many questions on, especially because Dodge themselves try to state that this clutch system is “a non-bleed” system.

This in fact is not true as the SRT-4 hydraulic system is just as easy if not easier to bleed than a vehicle normally equipped with a standard turn and bleed valve.

First we’ll begin by adjusting your clutch pedal, which can be accomplished by loosening the 8mm bolt that holds the clutch master rod to the clutch pedal assembly.

Loosen this 8mm bolt gently and pull up on the pedal assembly until you reach the clutch pedal bump stop. At this point, hold your clutch pedal up and tighten down on the 8mm bolt. Make sure to use the right size and use a extension so that you do not torque or turn the aluminum master cylinder fork in any way.

Damage may occur to the master cylinder if you do not take care when loosening or tightening. One of the most common questions we get when people read our How To Bleed an SRT-4 Clutch primer:

Q: Why will I need to adjust my clutch pedal?

A: If your clutch pedal is not responding or sluggish to return to your foot after you depress the clutch down, you will want to adjust the hydraulics not the clutch pedal. Check the next section ; “Bleeding Your SRT-4 Clutch”

If your clutch is biting lower than it was before, and is difficult to drive because it engages right off the floor, you will want to adjust the clutch pedal.

Here is a look at a damaged master cylinder unit, brought to us when one of our customers used a box wrench to try and adjust his clutch pedal. This is definitely not the right way of bleeding the clutch assembly.

Removal of the master cylinder will open up a new can of worms, especially from the plastic hard line that runs alongside your transmission to mate to your slave cylinder. You can opt to remove just the master cylinder by removing the push pin that secures the line, but be prepared for a messy job.

The SRT-4 slave cylinder is connected to the master and the plastic hard line with this keyway push clip. Removal of this line is next to impossible without removing your transmission and / or engine, so take care when handling it as heat and age can make this line brittle. You may or may break it during the How To Bleed an SRT-4 Clutch guide, but be aware of this danger.

Bleeding your SRT-4 Slave Cylinder

To begin the bleeding procedure for How To Bleed an SRT-4 Clutch, you will need to raise the front of your vehicle on jackstands or raise it on a 2 post lift so that you can access the transmission housing and the slave cylinder under the front of the car.

1. Get into your drivers seat and depress your clutch pedal several times, do not be shy about pumping the clutch pedal here. This will assist the air bubbles to get pushed out and towards the end or the slave cylinder in question. Your clutch pedal should not feel spongy and should return quickly and without delay. A sluggish pedal or weak return may show that air bubbles are trapped in your hydraulic system.

2. Check the level in your master cylinder reservoir for your SRT-4 and make sure that it’s topped off with DOT3 brake fluid.

Now with the vehicle raised, go back into your cabin and pump your clutch pedal at least 20-30 more times to ensure that you have positive pressure in your line and hydraulic system. You cannot overdo this step so make sure to pump your clutch repeatedly, be prepared for a good workout or have someone switch with you.

Locate your slave cylinder, mounted to the front of your transmission housing with a small plastic retainer and a small white plastic clip.

Using a flathead screwdriver, gently lift on this white tab and rotate the entire slave cylinder towards the front of the vehicle. With this done you can now slide the slave cylinder out of your transmission housing. Take care not to lose or drop the end piece into your transmission housing.

Now with your slave cylinder fully removed, let the unit hang below the vehicle, making the slave cylinder the lowest part of your car.

TIP : If you have your slave cylinder removed, DO NOT depress or actuate the master cylinder.

With your hand push the slave cylinder pushrod into the housing until it bottoms out and then release slowly. Repeat this step 10-20 times slowly pushing all the air pockets up and out of your system. Now gently re-insert the slave cylinder and lock it into place and test your clutch pedal.

If sogginess or your clutch pedal is still unresponsive, repeat the steps for bleeding your clutch hydraulics until you get the engagement and clutch pedal correct.

That does it for our How To Bleed an SRT-4 Clutch article, if you have any questions or comments please let us know below.