The Ford Fusion MAF sensor in your 2.5 liter Ford sedan acts as the “eyes” of your Ford computer. When you depress your gas pedal, this opens the throttle body allowing more air to rush into the engine. As this happens your mass air flow sensor or MAF sensor reads the value of the incoming air and translates it into a signal your computer will recognize.
Your engine computer is called the Powertrain Control Module, and it’s primary duty is to control the fuel and spark events of your engine. Today I’ll be showing you how to test a Fusion MAF Sensor in a 2014 Ford sedan with the 2.5 liter engine in it.
Over time the heated wire of the Ford mass air flow sensor may go bad. Also this Fusion MAF sensor is a six pin unit, which means that the Air Intake Temperature sensor is also incorporated into it. When your Fusion MAF sensor begins to go bad there is a variety of issues that can arise.
Symptoms of a failed Fusion MAF Sensor
Some of the biggest issues of a bad Ford Fusion mass air flow sensor have to do with your engine and how it performs. When your Ford PCM or powertrain control module doesn’t receive the right MAF signals your engine can run rough. Here’s a few of the symptoms of a failed Ford MAF sensor.
- Poor fuel economy
- Sluggish acceleration
- Black smoke from tailpipe
- Trouble starting engine
The Fusion MAF Sensor is located at the air inlet, and it’s mounted to the factory air box. The sensor is housed in the mass air flow housing by two screws. If you need to replace your mass air flow sensor that’s all you need to remove to replace it.
Because the Ford mass air flow sensor is a critical component, it’s secured by a locking wiring harness. Unfortunately Ford mounted this one in a way that makes the red lock tab difficult to access.
Pull out the connector to disengage the locking mechanism. Once you have the MAF connector disconnected you can begin testing the function of your Fusion mass air flow sensor.
To do this you will need to use an automotive multimeter, if you are not sure how to use one check our guide here. If you need a low cost digital multimeter we sell the best here at our online store.
Testing the Fusion MAF Sensor for Power
To begin you will be testing the power signal at PIN B for 5 volts of DC power. Keep in mind that you might not get an exact reading, but it should be close.
Once you have determined that you have power, you need to check for a low reference signal or ground. Using your multimeter check PIN C for a ground signal as well as PIN E for a low reference ground signal.
You should now have determined that you are receiving power and ground at your Fusion MAF sensor. Now you will be probing the front of PIN A for a switching voltage signal. This signal should jump from 1.5 volts DC to 5 volts DC of power.
Remember that your values may vary, but they will be close to these values. If your power and ground wires check out, chances are your Fusion MAF Sensor has gone south and must be replaced.
Shop our online store to find the best replacement unit here, or at our local auto parts store. Replace your Fusion MAF Sensor by undoing the two screws that hold it to the MAF housing.
Once done use an OBDII scanner or scan tool to reset and clear your trouble codes. You now know how to test your Ford Fusion MAF sensor! Have any questions about our guide? leave us a comment below and let us know!
I have a 2010 Ford Fusion SE, 2.5L – fairly smooth idle, but very rough if I give it any gas at all. Service engine light is on. Pitches OBDII code P0102 on my scanner. My MAF sensor looks very similar to the one pictured in this article, but when I test the pins as you’ve described I get the following measures:
A. 11.25
B. 0.00
C. 1.97
D. 1.97
E. 0.01
F. 5.00
I’ve cleaned the MAF sensor to no avail.
Hi Dillon, thanks for reading
That’s a common Fusion MAF problem, and it sounds like you may have a break if your sensor comes back clean. Quick question, is there any difference in how your Ford reacts if you UNPLUG the MAF all together?
I have the exact same 2010 Fusion (209K miles) and I was having problems accelerating going up hills as the engine would be ‘slow’ and the shifting a tad too late and having stuttering problems on level roads (no hard starting and some rough idling). My MPG was 21.5 around town after I replaced both 02 sensors, new plugs and coil packs. My intake hose had been screwed with and an integral part was taken off and a part from a 2006 was put on…to make it louder and a hose intake area was exposed to the air inside the engine compartment about 6″ from the MAF sensor!!!! I found the correct intake part and put it on. Car did not behave properly lately and I decided to try a new MAF sensor. The second i turned the car on after it had been installed it was great!!! Almost like another car altogether. I have to back out of my driveway up a small incline. Before MSF installation i would have to give the car some gas….not this time it rolled right out of the driveway all on it’s own!! I could tell immediately that the MAF had gone bad being exposed for how long to raw air/dirt/oil from the engine. I didn’t bother cleaning it… I just replaced it. There was no engine code either….just an old lady’s intuition as to what part needed replaced. My mechanic son agreed it was the MAF and he changed it for me. My MPG should improve tremendously now!!!
Would suggest you just replace your MAF sensor instead of trying to clean it. Not worth the hassle in the end and you get peace of mind knowing you are not going to stall out in the middle of traffic…….
Hi Linda, thanks for reading and commenting. I would also agree that replacing the MAF is always a better option than cleaning.