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This is one of the first modifications you should perform on your DSM. The stock boost gauge isn't a indication of manifold pressure, rather a "guessitmated" value of boost from the cars MAS readings. To properly start modding your car, you need to know how much boost you are running to prevent and catastrophic failures or problems. We carry a full line of Greddy, Apex, Blitz, SPI, Autometer and others. Things you need to perform this installation

• Boost Gauge of your choice
• Some form of mounting equipment : ( Autometer 2 or 3 pillar pod will suffice )
• A pressure T fitting 1/8" plastic or brass
• 4 Zip ties
• Wire Cutters / splicers
• Electrical Tape
• Coat Hanger
• 2-3 feet of vacuum hose
• Xacto knife
• 10mm socket and ratchet
• Flathead screwdriver

Sensor Install

1. Tap the hose for the electronic sensor into the hose that runs from the intake manifold to the solenoid that controls the fuel pressure regulator. If you have the FPR solenoid removed, then tee into the manifold tap for the fuel pressure regulator itself (shown here)



Cut this line in half, installing your vacuum tee, then connect your vacuum hose to one end, and the two other ends to the fuel pressure regulator hose. ( shown here )



2. Run this hose into the cabin by cutting a hole in your steering column boot. Use your xacto knife and cut a small "X" into the boot itself. Use a straightened coat hanger and shove it directly into the engine bay from the cabin itself. Bend the hanger around the hose, then pull the hose back into the cabin itself. Be careful routing the hose under the dash so as not to interfere with the movement of the pedals or steering column.

Wiring

Undo the 4 10 mm bolts that hold your lower dash portion together.



There are 2 bolts behind plastic plates in your dash. Use your flathead screwdriver to CAREFULLY remove them to grant access to these bolts



With the lower cover removed you have access to the ignition / steering column area. Locate your turbo timer harness and begin splicing away.

Red Constant power, 12v. Using your stripper / cutter, carefully peel back a section of the red wire found on your turbo timer harness. Tee your boost controllers constant power into this line and solder the wire into the red wire. If you wish you can use a vampire clip if soldering is something you don't want to do. Wrap carefully with electrical tape. If you do not have a turbo timer, use a test light and probe for power with the ignition off.



Orange Switched power. This wire should go to the green or blue wire on your turbo timer. The cigarette lighter is a good place to get switched power also. Use the black wire a the center of the lighter.



White Power for lights. We normally connect this wire with the orange wire to switched power. If you want the light to go on and off with the lights you need to connect the wire to the tail light circuit. The wire harness that runs along the rocker panel, under the carpet has this wire.



Carefully slit the loom cover to expose the wires. The tail light wire is green with a white stripe, with dashes on it.



There is a green / white wire closer to the top of this loom, this IS NOT it.. You have to dig deeper for the wire you want. Its green with a white stripe with dashes in it.



Finishing up

Secure the vacuum hose to your gauge or respective sending unit. Use the zip ties to ensure that the hoses wont ever come loose. Plug the electrical harness into your gauge for power. Mount in your a-pillar or respective mounting device. You now have a boost gauge!