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| Tech / Misc Engine theory, transmissions, modification, and tuning. |
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#31 |
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lead, follow, or get the hell out of the way!
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i've never drove one, i wonder if i could beat a stock mustang? or at least keep up, i'll have to give a try next time i get a chance. problem is, 99% or the stang owners around here have more money than balls, none of them will race.
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#32 |
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YOU are a turbo.
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Only one way to find out...what have ya got to lose!? Every time I lose a race I say, "wow, I hope you feel good about yourself, you beat a family car!" I try to keep my dignity, haha.
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#33 |
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Pro Street Boost Addict
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http://my.prostreetonline.com/t763.htm
^^ I posted a little on weight reduction there. In addition to that post, removing stuff depends on what kind of driving you will be doing. If youre serious about drag racing, remove as much weight as you can anywhere on the car. Almost everything in your car can be replaced with a lighter part. If youre serious about road courses and/or auto crossing, keeping your weight as close to 50/50 weight distribution is key. If your car is 50/50, you'll have to remove 1lb from the front for every 1lb you remove from the rear, or the balance of your car will be thrown off severely. If your car is not 50/50, try and get it there. Figure out where your car weighs the most (the web is great for this information), and start removing for your ideal driving habits. |
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#34 | |
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i shot a knife out of my air dick
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corner weighing the car is also a good idea.
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Laboratory17 |
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#35 | |
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Pro Street Boost Addict
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I try to keep the posts short and simple, theyre just a general guide, so I try not to go into too much detail. If anyone is serious about it, they can research it further. |
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#36 |
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Boost Junkie
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Not trying to be a dick...it just comes natural some times... but Im sure everyone else had the same thought... Seriously - If 50lbs is bogging your ride down, you got much bigger problems than just weight reduction. My advice is to trade that thing in on something with more balls if you're planning on doing any racing... you'll get embarrased alot less often.
Either that or screw the nitrous and save for an sr20 swap. |
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#37 |
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Banned
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save the tire..you might need it..i have gutted all 650lbs out of my interior..power seats out in the trash for the win!..i plan on mounting a small jack box and 2..not 1..but 2 spare tiers behind the seats in a custom aluminum mounting bracket...radio..dont have one...gutted the trunk allso..if ya want to race and get crazy..ya have to get crazy with wieght...good luck man
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#38 |
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Nitrous God
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if your car has a sway bar, toss it
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#40 |
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Dan The Man
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Ok, keep the headliner though. A dry kit is a bad idea unless you run like a 25 shot with it. You just won't get the power you think, and if you overdo it without a wet system, that adds fuel as well as N02 you can lean out the engine and do fun things like....
Have a burnt ring or four, crack a piston or block or cam or crankshaft. You can prolly glaze the clutch pretty good too with a stock sentra. Should get parts to make it a wet kit and read the instructions and more on nitrous. You can't use it below certain rpm or you can really mess the engine up too. I bought a kit and returned it unopened. Just a little too much for me. You get caught on the street and the gig is up. Forget about ever driving a Z because you will get "street racer" insurance. ![]() ![]()
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"It's better to burn out, than to fade away"-Kergan |
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#41 | |
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=)
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however adding more fiberglass = more weight again, if you want it really smooth after you've already sanded it as much as you can, try some bondo just to smooth the top out. obviously you used a foam mold I take it? |
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#42 |
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Jr Pro Street Member
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if you havent already, ditch the spare and the tools. Carry a tire repair kit and a AAA card. Its the price we pay for putting a car on a diet. Good Luck
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#44 | |
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Nitrous God
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__________________________ |.....Overnight.........................| || |........Parts From Japan.............||'|";,___ |_..._...____________======||_|_|...,..] "(@)'(@)''''''''''''''''''''''''*|(@)(@)*****" (@) |
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