My Pro Street
Pro Street Store Order Status Gallery Classifieds Arcade Motorsports Groups New Rides Get Sponsored Affiliates
Go Back   My Pro Street > Do It Yourself > Universal Tech Tips and How Tos > Ignition
Register Top Rides FAQ Members List Calendar Mark Forums Read

Welcome to the My Pro Street community! Register here! - It takes less than 1 minute... we timed it!

By joining you can Create your personal FREE car webpage!, Upload and share pictures FREE, Chat with other members, Ask or share tech advice with other members, and much much more! Here are some sample pages our members have created... it's all FREE!:

mr_240sx | trtrex | birdizzle256 | chipzxb | cobraR | dsm_tuner260 | sagvr4 | M3tor2nR

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-29-2008, 12:34 AM   #1
deep_stage_srt4
Feb 2008 ROTM Winner!
 
deep_stage_srt4's Avatar
 

My Page | My Pics | My Ads

Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: just moved to the AL...abama
Posts: 1,660
Send a message via AIM to deep_stage_srt4 Send a message via Yahoo to deep_stage_srt4
Default relocating your battery to the trunk (the basics)

*i don't know if this method is acceptable for SCCA, NHRA, D1 or any other sanctioned racing. please consult your respective sanctioning bodies rule book before attempting any battery relocation.

first- gather your supplies. i got 18 feet of 4 gage battery cable (measured the length of my car + a few feet), screw in wire looms, self tapping metal screws, a power drill, a floor jack, jack stands, solder and small torch or iron, wire cutters, wire ties (to mock up the wire) a lone battery terminal, and a connector for the new wire to battery connection.


second- find a spot in the bottom of your trunk to run a cable through, remember that your going to need enough room to run the power cable, the ground, and i would suggest a vent tube also. i ended up popping the metal cap (just above the hole used in the picture) to run all my wires though. also remember that rough edges will cut into your wire, i used some rubber grommets i had and pushed the wire though them to keep them from rubbing against the metal.


third- test your location for fitment of all the wires and the new battery and box. remember that you need to mount the box, so make sure you have enough room that you wont run into the sub frame. and when checking fitment, make sure your can still gain access to things like, spare tires, and the back of taillights.


forth- obviously this is much easier to do without an engine in the car, but i used my old positive connection as is with a lone battery terminal connected to it. this prevented me from having to alter the stock set up, but still connect my new cable


fifth- i bought a wire end for a 4 gage wire and then put flux all over the exposed cable, slid the shrink tube far back along the cable and slid the end on. i fired up the small hand held torch and melted solder into the connection. once i was finished i allowed the cable to cool before sliding the shrink tube back to the connection, the used a heat gun ( you can use a hair dryer also) to shrink the tube down over the exposed connection. remember to keep the shrink tube as far from the heat as possible, the heat will transfer down the copper wire and shrink the tube somewhere you dont want it.


sixth- secure the finished end of the wire with a little slack so that it cannot be pulled down when your fitting the rest of the cable under the car. try to find a route to the back that keeps the wire away from the exhaust and any possible points under the car that could touch should you bottom out. also be aware of rub points and try to avoid them. i used the wire tires to mock up my route, then used the wire looms and metal screws to mount the wire under the car.




the final picture shows the rubber grommets i used on the wires, you can see that i tapped into a stout part of the frame for the ground (which i later sprayed over with underbody paint, to keep it from rusting.) and the type of looms i used. the ground wire is a 24'' prefabricated ground wire from advanced auto parts, and i used a regular battery terminal connector on the other side of the cable. the two carriage bolts poking out of the bottom are securing the battery box down and the wire is wrapped about them to prevent the bolts from coming loose.


im sure i have left some information out, i will edit as necessary, please feel free to comment of ask questions.
__________________
There is no replacement for displacement, like a turbo! -dssrt4

**Sponsored By **
deep_stage_srt4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2008, 06:37 AM   #2
86_Notch
Nitrous God
 
86_Notch's Avatar
 

My Page | My Pics | My Ads

Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Delaware
Posts: 1,109
Default Re: relocating your battery to the trunk (the basics)

when you ground to the chassis like in the above pic, make sure you run a ground strap from the engine to the chassis in the engine compartment, i had a few buddies forget to do that and they ended up burning up weird things like speed o cables and clutch cables .

if you want some bling Taylor makes a nice battery relocation kit with an aluminum battery box
__________________
__________________________
|.....Overnight.........................| ||
|........Parts From Japan.............||'|";,___
|_..._...____________======||_|_|...,..]
"(@)'(@)''''''''''''''''''''''''*|(@)(@)*****" (@)
86_Notch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2008, 11:18 AM   #3
deep_stage_srt4
Feb 2008 ROTM Winner!
 
deep_stage_srt4's Avatar
 

My Page | My Pics | My Ads

Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: just moved to the AL...abama
Posts: 1,660
Send a message via AIM to deep_stage_srt4 Send a message via Yahoo to deep_stage_srt4
Default Re: relocating your battery to the trunk (the basics)

Quote:
Originally Posted by 86_Notch View Post
when you ground to the chassis like in the above pic, make sure you run a ground strap from the engine to the chassis in the engine compartment, i had a few buddies forget to do that and they ended up burning up weird things like speed o cables and clutch cables .

if you want some bling Taylor makes a nice battery relocation kit with an aluminum battery box
i think moroso makes one also, and good point about grounding the front terminal, i used the same lone terminal setup, and then grounded it to the frame on the drivers side. you know, some rep points would be pretty sweet if you like it!
__________________
There is no replacement for displacement, like a turbo! -dssrt4

**Sponsored By **
deep_stage_srt4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2008, 03:51 PM   #4
jaws 2.5
jaws on the rise
 
jaws 2.5's Avatar
 

My Page | My Pics | My Ads

Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Dallas Tx
Posts: 167
Send a message via Yahoo to jaws 2.5
Default Re: relocating your battery to the trunk (the basics)

moving your battery to the trunk is legal in IHRA/NHRA but it does have to be in a battery box with an external cut off switch incase of electrical fires
jaws 2.5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
extra battery armybradford Audio / Security / Video 9 03-28-2008 08:25 PM
new battery Icepic General Discussion and Debate 2 03-06-2007 05:32 PM
New Trunk Kit Pic XaddictX Member Web Pages 12 02-27-2007 09:50 PM
Electric Trunk Release Jncominco2 Honda Forum 4 02-15-2007 08:06 AM
Reverse Trunk Jncominco2 Appearance and Cosmetic 0 01-25-2007 07:00 PM


Pro Street Motorsports My Pro Street Community

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 11:00 PM.


Powered by vBulletin Version 3.6.1
Copyright ©2000 - 2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2006-2009 Pro Street Online, Inc.