slow2000z28

1.check your coolant level. make sure fans come on if electric, and no restrictions on the radiator.
2. check for air in syetem, by means of a bleeder screw at the highest point of the system or by removing the radiator cap.
A. if not using a bleeder screw then first remove radiator cap. allow the engine to get to normal operating temp. be sure the fluid level is correct. CAUTION the fluid is hot. you should see the fluid cycling through the system. as it cycles any air in the system will be removed in air pockets. be carefully bc the bubbles will swep out bits of hot fluid. once there are no more air bubbles then system is bled.
B.if using a bleeder screw. install radiator cap. be sure fluid level is correct. get car to operating temp. once the engine is hot carefully crack the bleeder. be VERY CAREFUL. the screw will allow air to escape, but will also release some hot coolant, once the air is bled tighten the scrw back in place.
3. if your coolant isnt cycling inside your radiator, or the coolant in the radiator never warms up, then you may have a stuck thermostat. to check the thermostat, carefully remove the thermostart from the housing if applicale ( not on an ls1), and reinstall the housing w/o the thermostat. run th engine. if it cycle now and warms up then replace your radiator.
4. if the fluid still does not cyle more than likely your waterpump has gone bad. check your belt if belt driven to make sure its still there. if so replace your waterpump or have a professional perform this task.
5.another common problem is radiator hoses collapsing due to old age or defective part, or thermostat stuck.
7. aslo the radiator cap is designr to operate at a particular pressure. the is a way to pressure test the cap but im sure not too many people reading this have this tool, so just replace the $10.00 part and go on w/ it.
*be sure to add the right type of coolant.. do not mix Dexcool(orange) w/ the regular (green). and mix coolant to your areas specified temperature.*


this is from personal experience. i fought for three months last year w/ my car overheating. after exhausting all options i found out that it was my filler neck on the radiator what a small bur on it allowing the cap not to seat properly. the cap allowed air to be sucked into the system and inturn would cause my car to rapidly overheat. one hint to the radiator sucking air was the fact of radiator fluid spewing from my filler neck (w/ cap off) as the radiator became hot and the thrmostat opened. as anyone around car knows, you should always bleed the air outta the system to obtain proper operation. since then ive seen this problem with 3 other cars. so before goin through any massive and costly procedures, simply take some fine grit sandpaper and gently sand the filler neck where the cap connects to it. it may not be the solution, but is worth a try.

-brandon

anyone feel free to add anything i missed bc its kinda late here and ive been workin all day lol

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QTP LT's, QTP ORY w/ Cut outs, ported tb, ported Maf, msd wires, 4.10 gears, upgraded axles and drive shaft, built Rockland T-56 trans, t/a rear girdle, centerforce clutch, cold air intake, flowmaster, and standalone computer tunning from HPTuners
weiand intake on the way and sts turbo kit hopefully by this spring.

Camrynz

my 94 talon is overheating.i replaced the thermostat and i bought a new radiator cap today.my car seems tu run bout halfway when the cap is off but when i put the cap on it starts to get hot.and the radiator hoses and radiator seem to be cool but the temp gauge is reading hot.it seems as if my thermostat isnt opening correctly but it does and it still seems to overheat.im all out of ideas that what could be wrong with it.if u could help i would greatly appreciate it.thx

kodyaccord

Does your cooling fan come on? I had a friend with a 94 eclipse having the same problem with car over heating and it was because his raditor fan motor had given out and wasn't kicking on