slow2000z28

well if your car is running -9 or -10 at cruise it is still extremely rich. it should be between
-5 to +5, actually at 0 if possible. id still cut back the fule untill u get it into the -5 to +5 range. just monitor your WOT to make sure it doesnt lean out. the less fuel will give better throttle response and more powerr b/c its not choking out.
it should be there (-5 to +5) in all driving conditoins except WOT, there it should increase the fuel trim.

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QTP LT's, QTP ORY w/ Cut outs, ported tb, ported Maf, msd wires, 4.10 gears, upgraded axles and drive shaft, built Rockland T-56 trans, t/a rear girdle, centerforce clutch, cold air intake, flowmaster, and standalone computer tunning from HPTuners
weiand intake on the way and sts turbo kit hopefully by this spring.

misnblu

I'd PM you with more of this but there is no PM capabilities here.
So you think that I can go down a bit further with the fuel pressure even though it's already been dropped to 35psi?
Of course the manual says that the normal operating range of the car is at 43psi so what do you think?
It's a '97 so it to has the fuel enrichment curve built into the wot.
But would that also figure with normal driving where the ECU would try to keep it stoich??

Coming home today, the car really felt good with some serious power (or so it seems) when going to wot.
No knock to speak of and am monitoring this at all times, especially during 4th gear acceleration (high load), and wot.
Btw, idle had dropped to about -1 to -3 but pretty much stays now at about -1.5 in the long trim. Short trim (although it's constantly changing) seems to be stabilized at about 0 to -1 for the most part.

I was thinking about what you said about the fuel tables and how they're going to be changed by the ECU even thought the fuel pressure is dropped.
But, the ECU would theoretically compensate for too much fuel (which it has and is noted for the ld9 engines) hence the negative fuel trim numbers, yes??

Sorry for all of the questions but am having a blast with this and learning a great deal too.
I just don't want to mess things up.

Misnblu

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slow2000z28

well if you ltft have learned again and are at -1.5 at average i wouldnt change it anymore. that is a safe place to be it is a lil rich but you will avoid any unwanted knock. the next step in tuning would be to tune the pwoer enrich table if using the hp software. i cant think of a way to tune the pe table w/o a tuner.
do a 0 to 70 or 0 to 100 run and record your o2 mv. they should be around .880-.890 mv. let me know what they are after you do this ill pm you if posible w/ ore info

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QTP LT's, QTP ORY w/ Cut outs, ported tb, ported Maf, msd wires, 4.10 gears, upgraded axles and drive shaft, built Rockland T-56 trans, t/a rear girdle, centerforce clutch, cold air intake, flowmaster, and standalone computer tunning from HPTuners
weiand intake on the way and sts turbo kit hopefully by this spring.

cavalierkid

can you use Hp tuner to tune my car for the turbo i am putting a turbo on my 2.2 ecotec and i was told it has to be tuned or it wont run worth crap

misnblu

HPTuners is the ideal format for tuning.
You'll also need a wideband controller to keep continuous monitoring of the a/f ratio's and an egt or exhaust gas temperature monitor would be a good addition to the turbo.
Check out the HPTuners forums for more information on any questions you may have for your car.

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cavalierkid

i just want to get as much hp as i can out of the ecotec GM has ecotecs that have hp in the 1000's but theres are twin turbo and they can do whatever they want i would like around 400-500