Home 2JZ Engine Swaps How To Convert a 2JZ Sump

How To Convert a 2JZ Sump

February 9, 2015

It’s not always easy to put together a 2JZ swap, because there’s just so many variations of the 2JZ. Whether you are installing a 2JZ into another chassis, or simply swapping a new motor into your 2JZ powered car, it’s good to know how to convert a 2JZ sump. Because the 2JZ oil sump comes in both mid mounted and front mounted variations, you might have to convert a 2JZ sump in order to fit it into your car.

Swapping a 2JZ engine? Check our 2JZ sensor guide along with our wiring guide and rebuild guide. Putting a replacement 2JZ into your Lexus or Toyota but have a front sump replacement engine? Have no fear, our how to convert a 2JZ sump DIY article will walk you through the process. First let’s take a look at what the oil sump is, and how it applies to you.

Shown above are the many different oil pans and sump setups that can be found on a 2JZ, GE or GTE. Because your vehicle may require a front or rear sump for install, you may need to convert the donor 2JZ if you want it to go into your car. For vehicles like the Miata or 240SX, a 2JZ front oil sump is required for fitment.

For other vehicles like the GS300 and IS300, the 2JZ must be a mid or rear oil pump sump setup for proper fitment.

If you are converting your front sump to rear sump or your 2JZ rear sump to front sump, the first order of business is to drain the oil and remove the metal lower oil pan.

In order to learn how to convert a 2JZ sump, you will need to drain the oil from your 2JZ and remove the metal lower oil pan. Today we’ll be showing you how to convert a 2JZGE front sump setup to a rear or mid 2JZ sump setup.

Remove your crankshaft bolt and crankshaft pulley from your 2JZ. Although this step isn’t truly required, it’s a good idea to service and check you crank pulley or harmonic damper. Check here for our DIY guide on breaking loose the 2JZ crank bolt in case you’ve got a tough customer.

Undo all the 10mm bolts that hold the lower metal 2JZ oil pan in place.

Once all the 10mm bolts have been removed, go ahead and take off the lower oil pan. Now you’ve got to unplug your oil level sender and undo the 10mm bolts that mount on all corners of the 2JZ oil level sender.

Now that the lower cover is off and your oil level sender is loosened, gently slide the oil level sender through your windage tray to remove.

Clear your 2JZ oil pan, and then start to undo the 10mm bolts that hold your windage tray to the 2JZ middle pan. Remove the windage tray and the 2JZ oil pickup tube.

Don’t forget the oil pickup tube gasket, make sure to remove this before you yank off the rest of your 2JZ sump setup. Now undo the 12mm bolts that line the inside of your sump setup, and all around your intermediate 2JZ oil pan.

Once loosened, you can gently pry up on the service marks shown below on your 2JZ to remove the oil pans.

Now that you have all your 2JZ oil pans removed, you can clean your 2JZ block with a razor blade to ensure that your gasket maker has something clean to seal to.

Apply a thin layer of gasket to your new 2JZ oil sump setup, and then install onto your 2JZ engine. Make sure to use a light film of gasket maker, we prefer Hondabond for it’s durability and cost.

If you are converting from rear sump to front sump, or front sump to rear sump, you will need the following parts to make this conversion possible. Remember that these parts will be rear or front, depending on what style of 2JZ oil sump system your swap or car requires.