The VQ35DE is a strikingly divisive engine when it comes to winning the hearts of aftermarket enthusiasts. For some it’s a disappointing platform to replace the very powerful turbocharged VG series of motor that powered Nissan through the 90s Supercar battles.
But for many others, it’s an awesome blend of technology and efficiency from it’s forged steel rods, one-piece forged crankshaft, to Nissan’s nylon intake manifold technology, it’s a clear cut leader in the V6 category
The block shares many similar traits as the VQ30DE but couples variable valve timing to take full advantage of it’s displacement to generate 228-300 hp / 246-278 ft. lbs at the flywheel. Although it took some time for the aftermarket support to come around, the VQ is now undoubtedly Nissan’s signature powerplant as it’s now developed into the what is now found in the new Skyline GT-R.
Although swapping a VQ35 isn’t as popular as some of the other forced induction options, it’s gaining in popularity due to the many vehicles the motor can be found in as well as the variants that can be found in many different displacements.
One of the many questions we get here at Pro Street are regarding engine swaps, and the electrical wiring of the PCM into the chassis of your choice. Most of these swaps revolve around the 240sx, a common candidate for engine swaps, although we will be looking at how to wire in the VQ35 ECU into almost any vehicle of your choosing.
Although this How to Wire your VQ35 Swap writeup is typically for the 2003–2006 Nissan 350Z and 2003–2007 Infiniti G35 versions of the VQ, you can just as easily select one of the FWD versions of this motor.
Usage of different mounts may be required when swapping them into your car. Such FWD versions can be found in the 2002+ Nissan Altima, Maximas and much more.
ECU Pinouts – What to wire up when swapping your VQ.
Critical Engine Operation Pinouts :
These wires must be connected to your vehicle chassis, and are the vital steps to knowing How to Wire your VQ35 Swap.
Secondary Engine Operation Pinouts :
- Chassis Ground – Pin 1 – Black
- Chassis Ground – Pin 115
- Chassis Ground – Pin 116
- Sensor Ground – Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 1 – Pin 82
- Sensor Ground – Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 2 – Pin 83
- Accelerator Sensor Power – Position 1 – Pin 90 – 5V
- Accelerator Sensor Power – Position 2 – Pin 91 – 5V
- Ignition Switch – Pin 109 – W/B
- Power Supply for ECM – Pin 119
- Power Supply for ECM – PIn 120
- Backup Power Supply to PCM – Pin 121 – R/W
- ECM Relay (OUTPUT) – Pin 111 GY – L
- Ignition Switch – Pin 109 – W/B
- Backup Power Supply to ECM – PIn 121 -R/W
Throttle – Yay for Drive By Wire!
- Accelerator pedal position sensor 2 – Pin 98 – Red / Yellow Wire
- Accelerator pedal position sensor 1 – Pin 106 – Black / White Wire
- ECM Relay – Self Shut off – Pin 111 – GY / L Wire
- Fuel Pump Relay – Pin 113 – LG/B Wire
- Throttle Control Relay – Pin 104 – SB Wire
- Data link connector – Pin 85 – PU/W
- CAN communication line – Pin 86 – P
- CAN communication line – Pin 94 – L
And there you have it! Once you have determined and laid out the wires you need to hook up to your chassis you are good to go! Make sure you have your VATS disabled and have the appropriate sensors required to run your swap and you now know How to Wire your VQ35 Swap!
- Pro Street Staff